On the western side of Paxos, a cliff collapsed in 2008, during an earthquake. Just 3-4 years after the landslide, the waves had already formed a stunning beach, Erimitis. White pebbles, light blue, sulfuric waters with healing properties and with a bleariness reminiscent of chemistry experiments, bushes and yellow flowers, beside white, imposing cliffs and piled-up fragments of the rockfall . And if you get lucky, this amazing secluded beach all to yourself for hours.
The plan had been to celebrate here my 40th birthday, but it got windy and the boat could not access the area, so I came the next day alone. I took the public bus from Gaios and got off at the village of Magazia. A dirt road of about 1.5 km (the last part is asphalted but it is very steep) branches off the main street, 400 m outside the settlement, followed by a narrow, rough and somewhat dangerous 200m dirt track, with 300 steps. To access the beach, you need to step on a few rocks, some of which do not look super stable. The hike is overall pleasant, but it takes about 45 min and requires a relatively good physical condition and attention. That was perhaps the reason nobody was there (another reason might have been that it was still June, albeit a long weekend due to a public holiday), apart from two French guys who showed up for a while and a man in a speedboat who approached the beach but did not stay. It is nevertheless definitely worth the effort, as the views and the beach itself are magnificent.
Erimitis is also known for its spectacular sunset and the color it gives the rocks. I wanted to experience this and I had arranged a taxi pick-up at night, from Magazia. But since I did not come across a cafe on my way down to the beach, I ran out of water at some point and I had to go earlier than planned. Unfortunately, I never got the chance to watch this sunset, as the following day, my last one in Paxos, it was cloudy and dark.
The uphill hike was pretty tough and the strong sun and unbearable heat made it a “mission almost impossible”! I had to take many breaks to rest under the trees, I thought I would never make it to the village and I was about to cry. When I had already climbed most and the steepest part of the trail and thought I was about to thirst myself to death, a British couple showed up and gave me a lift. I recall they mentioned they were very worried about the outcome of the coming Brexit poll.
They left me at Magazia, I strolled a bit around the village and then killed some time in a “kafeneio”, right on the main street. While small talking with the owner and other locals, the last bus to Gaios drove past us, 10min ahead of schedule. I thought to call a taxi but I was told it would be easier to find one on the way…well, it was not and my phone battery went dead..and I had to walk another 4.5 km to Gaios…But I could not complain!!